Weathering Gunpla: Washes, Pigments and Dry Brushing

Weathering Gunpla means adding grime and wear so the kit looks like a machine that has seen use. Start with a dark wash in the panel lines, rub weathering powder onto lower legs and edges, dry brush a lighter color over raised detail, then seal it all with a matte top coat. Start light; you can always add more.

Tamiya’s modeling guide defines weathering as simulating effects such as dirt and exhaust burn. On Gunpla, Wikipedia notes that paint and carving techniques can make a kit look worn or battle-damaged. A clean kit is not wrong: weathering is a style choice, and it suits mass-produced suits and diorama scenes as much as a hero machine after a long fight.

Weathering products and what each one does

Weathering products fall into a few groups, and each gives a different effect. Many builders combine two or three.

Mr. Hobby’s weathering range also includes filter liquids and weathering pastes, plus a water-based line for builders who prefer it.

Grime washes for Gunpla panels

A wash is thinned paint that runs into recesses and darkens them. Mr. Hobby describes its Mr. Weathering Color as an oil-based paint for adding dirt and grime to plastic models, usable for panel lining and washes, alone or mixed. Use its own thinner to dilute it and to wipe away the excess.

The maker gives three cautions worth following. It is relatively gentle on plastic, but large amounts of paint or thinner at once can still crack or damage parts. Let each layer dry fully before the next weathering paint. And do not mix it with water-based weathering paints. If you only want neat lines rather than overall grime, the panel lining guide covers that.

Weathering powders and dust effects

Weathering powders are the most forgiving way to start. Tamiya’s Weathering Master sets come in compact cases, and Tamiya’s F set page notes a built-in sponge applicator. Colors are grouped by job. Set A covers sand and mud shades. Set B pairs snow and soot with rust, and set C mixes orange rust with metal shades. Tamiya says set F recreates the look of bare metal and works best over silver.

On a mobile suit, dust and mud go where a machine would pick them up, starting with the feet and lower legs. Soot belongs around thrusters and gun muzzles. Rust and metal shades suit chipped edges and weapons.

Weathering sets and weathering colors

Shop weathering sets and pigments→

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• Tamiya Weathering MasterBrowse →
• Mr. Weathering ColorBrowse →

Dry brushing and pencil grime

Dry brushing picks out raised detail with a lighter color. Airfix’s method is to load the brush, wipe most of the paint off on a paper towel, then sweep it lightly over raised areas so only the edges catch color. Airfix’s broader advice applies here too: build up thin layers rather than one heavy one.

Bandai’s own painting tips include a simpler trick: rub pencil lead into powder, then apply it with a cotton swab to add grime that looks realistic, especially in photos. It needs nothing but a pencil and a swab, which makes it a good first try on a spare part.

A simple weathering order

1. Matte coat the finished kit so effects have something to grip. See the top coat guide.
2. Wash the recesses and wipe back.
3. Dry brush edges and raised detail.
4. Add powders for dust and soot.
5. Seal with a light matte coat, misted on so it does not blow the powder away.

Weathering goes on after spray painting or hand painting, and after decals. For where it sits in the whole build, see the build guide. Armor models are often weathered, so model tank kits make good practice pieces.